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A Guide to Traditional Wet Shaving

A Guide to Traditional Wet Shaving

The typical man will spend hundreds of hours shaving over his lifetime.

So isn’t it value investing a little bit of your time to study one of the simplest ways to do it?

You’re in all probability giving your self a sub-optimal shave with out even realizing it.

I’ll train you ways to keep away from getting razor burn or having to stick items of bathroom paper in your face a bit later. However first let’s take a look at some explanation why you must contemplate giving conventional moist shaving a attempt.

Why You Ought to Attempt Traditional Wet Shaving

  • It’s inexpensive – Disposable razor refills value $2—four every, even in case you purchase them in bulk! Security razors use double-edged razor blades which solely value about $zero.09 – $zero.13 every.
  • It’s higher for the surroundings – Billions of disposable razors find yourself within the dump annually. That’s a variety of pointless plastic!
  • It’s higher in your pores and skin – Pores and skin irritation. Ingrown hairs. Nicks and cuts. Shaving with a disposable razor could be a painful and tedious course of. Electrical shavers aren’t a lot better and may produce pores and skin irritation.

In the event you’ve by no means tried moist shaving earlier than, you’re actually lacking out.

Not solely does conventional moist shaving depart you feeling and looking your greatest. You additionally really feel like a badass whereas doing it.

I used to hate shaving each morning. It was such a chore. I simply needed to get it over with.

Once I found conventional moist shaving, it modified every little thing for me. Shaving turned one thing of a ritual—one thing I truly loved doing every day, and truly appeared ahead to!

Over the previous yr I’ve experimented with rising a beard, however every time, I all the time seemed ahead to shaving all of it off with my security razor.

What You’ll Want to Get Began

old time shaving soap, razors, and brush

old time shaving soap, razors, and brush

Your funding in conventional moist shaving gear could be as thrifty or costly as you need to make it.

A lot of guys who check out conventional moist shaving might be tempted to spend a whole lot of dollars making an attempt out all the newest soaps, razors, and blades. There are even on-line shaving communities just like the Depraved Edge subreddit the place males share footage of their most up-to-date hauls.

However to get began, you actually solely want a couple of fundamentals.

A Security Razor

This would be the costliest a part of your new shaving package. A good one will set you again about $30.

Parker 99R Long Handle Heavyweight Butterfly Open Double Edge Safety Razor

Parker 99R Long Handle Heavyweight Butterfly Open Double Edge Safety Razor

My private favourite is the Parker 99R. I’ve tried different razors just like the Edwin Jagger DE86 and even classic Gillette security razors from the 1960s. However I all the time appear to maintain coming again to the Parker 99R. I really like its extra-long deal with, weighty really feel, and twist-to-open butterfly design that makes it very easy to change blades.

Blades

Each man appears to have his personal private choice when it comes to blades. Because of this, I’d extremely advocate choosing up a sampler pack so you’ll be able to attempt a number of totally different ones and see which you want greatest.

old time safety razor double edge blade

old time safety razor double edge blade

You’ll be able to decide up 70–100 blades for $20, which can final you 6+ months even when you change them each couple of days.

My private rating of the blades I’ve tried are:

  1. Astra Superior Platinum – I discover these blades keep sharper than some other model I’ve tried. I can use them for five+ shaves they usually nonetheless reduce completely.
  2. Lord Platinum – These are good blades. I discover them fairly comparable to Astra blades and I’ll use them in a pinch, however I discover they don’t keep sharp fairly as lengthy.
  3. Feather – These blades are EXTREMELY SHARP. Good if I really feel like an extra-close shave, however not one thing I exploit day-after-day. Be very cautious the primary time you attempt them. You don’t want to use any strain in any respect. Some individuals love the sharpness and others hate it, as a result of it may be straightforward to minimize your self with these blades when you aren’t cautious.
  4. Shark – These would in all probability be my favourite besides I discover they don’t keep sharp almost so long as Astra or Lord blades.
  5. Derby – I really feel like these are probably the most “dull” of the blades I’ve tried. They are often good for novices to follow with since they’re a bit extra forgiving, and gained’t slice your face like Feather blades for those who make a mistake.

Shaving Cleaning soap or Cream

In style aerosol shaving lotions include propellants, lubricants, and chemical compounds that may trigger irritation and allergic reactions. You don’t actually need to put that stuff in your pores and skin, particularly when you’re scraping it with a blade.

Proraso Shaving Soap

Proraso Shaving Soap

My favourite shaving cleaning soap is the white Proraso, which is made particularly for delicate pores and skin. A container prices about $10 and can final you a yr or extra.

Proraso is a well-liked shaving cleaning soap model from Italy. Additionally they make a inexperienced model with eucalyptus and menthol, and a pink model with sandalwood oil and shea butter.

In the event you’re on a finances, you possibly can decide up a puck of Williams Mug Shaving Cleaning soap for $1-2 as an alternative.

Shaving Brush

These are particular brushes that you simply’ll use to flip your cleaning soap right into a wealthy foamy lather. Additionally they assist stimulate your hair to rise up so it’s simpler to shave.

shaving brush

shaving brush

Brushes are generally produced from boar hair. Costlier luxurious brushes are sometimes produced from badger hair. There are additionally artificial brushes, that are a fantastic various in case you’re vegan or allergic to animal hair.

I’ve used a badger brush earlier than, however I discover I choose the additional coarseness of boar. My go-to brush is an Omega model boar brush with a picket deal with.

A Shaving Bowl

This may be any type of bowl or mug you have got mendacity round your home. No want to purchase something particular. This can be the place you whip your shaving cleaning soap right into a lather.

stainless steel shaving bowl

stainless steel shaving bowl

Alum Block

This appears like an enormous block of salt, and prices $5 – 10 relying on the dimensions you get. Model doesn’t actually matter for this, as a result of it’s all the identical stuff: aluminum sulfate.

alumb block for shaving nicks and cuts

alumb block for shaving nicks and cuts

After you’re completed shaving, you moist this and rub it throughout your face. It closes up your pores to forestall irritation and ingrown hairs.

When you’ve shaved utilizing an excessive amount of strain or with the fallacious angle, you’ll know whenever you put alum in your face as a result of it’ll sting. A lot. However this may be useful as suggestions to enhance your shaving method.

Styptic Pencil

That is often product of alum, however they’re sometimes formed like a pencil for simpler software to a small space. Styptics are used extra for the aim of stopping bleeding. There are additionally some next-generation styptic merchandise like Glyder, which is actually aluminum sulfate with botanicals in a lip balm fashion container.

styptic pencil for treating shaving nicks and cuts

styptic pencil for treating shaving nicks and cuts

Pre-Shave Oil

I don’t actually do that, however some guys swear by it. You need to use olive oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil, or no matter you have already got in your kitchen. Rub it in your face earlier than you lather up to permit your razor to slide even higher alongside your pores and skin. Simply wash your palms rather well after so that you don’t drop your razor.

Aftershave

Once more this isn’t actually one thing that’s obligatory, however it may be a pleasant final touch to your shaving expertise.

A good aftershave doesn’t simply make you odor good, however serves a function as nicely.

Search for one thing that accommodates an antiseptic like denatured alcohol or stearate citrate. These components will assist forestall an infection. Your aftershave also needs to include an astringent (like witch hazel) to shut your pores and scale back pores and skin irritation.

For properly underneath $100 you must now have every little thing you want to shave for the subsequent yr.

Shaving Method

Put aside a while to shave. Particularly when you’re simply getting began. You’ll do a greater job when you take your time. Traditional moist shaving will take you 20 – 30 minutes to do nicely. It must be a ritual that you simply come to take pleasure in, relatively than a chore that you simply rush via. It’s time day-after-day that you simply get simply to be alone and take into consideration life.

Use a top quality razor and blades. We already mentioned some manufacturers above at size, so it is best to have a good suggestion of what to search for.

1. Wet your whole face

Use water that’s comfortably scorching, however you don’t want to scald your self. The nice and cozy water will assist open up your pores and soften your coarse facial hair. You possibly can put a scorching moist towel in your face for a few minutes when you want, though that is troublesome to do whereas standing up. In the event you take a scorching bathe earlier than shaving, you’ll be able to skip this step.

2. Think about making use of pre-shave oil

Olive oil or just about no matter is in your kitchen cabinets will work. It additional moisturizes and softens the hair, making it simpler to reduce. It additionally acts as a lubricant for the blade. Once more, I don’t do that, however you may want to experiment and see should you prefer it.

three. Lather your cleaning soap

This step may be arduous to get proper, and you may want to watch a number of Youtube movies to see how the professionals do it. I discovered by watching movies like this one by mantic59 from the location, Sharpologist.

Get your brush good and moist by operating it underneath the faucet for a number of seconds whereas turning it. Then give it a number of mild flicks to take away a number of the extra moisture.

Rub the moist brush on prime of your shaving cleaning soap in round motions for a few minute. The comb ought to begin to take up a number of the cleaning soap. (Should you’re utilizing a shaving cream as an alternative of a dry cleaning soap, you possibly can skip this step and simply squeeze a glob of cleaning soap into your mug.)

Now take your soapy brush and switch it to your shaving mug. Start to swirl for a minute or two to work up a lather in your mug. You may want to add a bit little bit of water to get it going. Don’t add an excessive amount of, or your lather might be too runny.

You’ll realize it’s prepared when you’ve got a thick, fluffy opaque lather. The lather ought to have sufficient construction that it types “peaks”, or little factors that stick off. You need to be in a position to flip your brush the wrong way up with out worrying that the cleaning soap will all fall off  .

For additional consolation, soak your shaving mug or run it beneath scorching water earlier than you start to heat it up. It will hold your lather heat when you shave.

four. Apply the cleaning soap to your face

man lathering his face

man lathering his face

Begin off by rubbing the shaving brush in a round movement throughout your face for a few minute. You need to have a pleasant thick layer of cleaning soap throughout your face.

As soon as your face is usually coated, you need to use sweeping back-and-forth “painter strokes” to even every thing out a bit extra. The comb isn’t simply serving to apply the cleaning soap, however can also be making the person whiskers rise up to be extra simply minimize as nicely.

5. The precise shaving half

It’s necessary to shave “with the grain” in your first move. Should you’re accustomed to slicing with or towards the grain in woodworking, your hair acts equally.

Everybody’s facial hair factors in several instructions on totally different areas of their face. Some unfortunate guys even have swirls of hair that time in all totally different instructions. However usually your first move goes from up to down.

Maintain the blade at a 30 to 45 diploma angle to your face. In the event you go too steep or slender, you possibly can trigger irritation or reduce your self. This may be particularly tough round your chin and jawline, so take additional care in these areas.

man shaving with safety razor

man shaving with safety razor

Don’t apply strain. Low cost disposable razors have in all probability educated you to press arduous, however with a security razor this isn’t wanted. Let the load of the razor do the work.

Rinse your razor after each stroke to forestall it getting clogged up with hair  .

Attempt to solely go over every space as soon as initially. You’ll be re-lathering and making one other cross, so don’t fear when you missed some hairs the primary time. Repeatedly operating the razor over your unlathered face will trigger pointless irritation.

6. Re-lather for a second move

Seize your shaving brush and do the entire thing over once more. Besides this time, you need to shave sideways throughout your face as an alternative of from prime to backside. It will reduce the hairs just a bit bit nearer.

If you need an extra-smooth shave, you are able to do a 3rd cross going towards the grain (backside to prime.) That is nice for particular events whenever you need that child butt smooth shave, but in addition has the best probability of inflicting pores and skin irritation. Don’t be stunned in case your pores and skin is a bit pink and itchy the subsequent day after your first try.

7. Rinse

Clear your face off with chilly water to assist shut your pores off a bit. Then rub your alum block throughout your face. Wait a few minute for it to additional shut your pores, then rinse it off with chilly water once more.

eight. Pat your face dry

Use a clear towel or washcloth to keep away from spreading micro organism to your freshly shaved face. Don’t rub it utterly dry, as it will irritate your pores and skin.

9. Use an aftershave or moisturizer

You’ll be able to additional shield your pores and skin through the use of a moisturizer, or apply an aftershave with a pleasant manly odor.

10. Clear your gear

Rinse your brush and razor completely and shake out as a lot water as you’ll be able to over your sink or bathtub. Then stand them up to dry for at the very least a couple of hours. Depart your alum block uncovered to the air to let it dry as nicely. Taking good care of your shaving instruments will assist them last more.

Leveling Up Your Shaving Recreation

man wet shaving with traditional straight razor

man wet shaving with traditional straight razor

When you actually need to take your moist shaving recreation to the subsequent degree, you may be tempted to attempt a straight razor. It’s assured to make you are feeling like a lumberjack or cowboy the entire time you’re shaving.

I wouldn’t advocate it for rookies. Get your self snug with a security razor earlier than you think about shifting on.

Whereas straight razors make you feel and look tremendous cool, they’ve loads of drawbacks too.

You’ll be able to reduce your self actually badly with a straight razor should you don’t know what you’re doing. Ensure you perceive the angle you want to hold your blade at, and the way a lot strain to use (trace: none) earlier than making an attempt one for your self.

They’re additionally costly. Anticipate to pay $100 for a very good one. Though in the event you’re dedicated to it, you gained’t have to purchase one other blade for the remainder of your life.

Straight razors additionally require a bunch of specialised information and gear to keep.

Have you learnt how to sharpen knives? You’ll want your personal sharpening stones and a leather-based strop to hold your straight razor sharp sufficient to shave with out inflicting irritation.

Now You Can Shave like a Professional!

Shaving may be an costly and tedious chore in case you’re utilizing a disposable razor.

Traditional moist shaving utilizing a security razor could be a nice various. It’s cheaper, much less irritating on your pores and skin, and provides a superior shave.

Having the suitable instruments will make an enormous distinction in your shaving expertise, and your pores and skin will thanks too.

You will have to re-learn the entire shaving course of, together with every thing from how to lather your face, to how a lot strain to apply. However the outcomes will converse for themselves. You can also expertise the right shave!

Have you ever tried moist shaving for your self? What did you assume?

What’s your favourite razor or cleaning soap to use?

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